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Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War

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Book Series: Studia Fennica Historica ISBN: 9789522226655 9789522227522 9789522226785 Year: Pages: 306 DOI: 10.21435/sfh.20 Language: English
Publisher: Finnish Literature Society / SKS Grant: Jane and Aatos Erkko Foundation and SKS
Subject: Political Science --- Social Sciences --- Arts in general
Added to DOAB on : 2016-09-27 11:01:39
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"This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press."

Topie Impitoyable: The Corporeal Politics of the Cloth, the Wall, and the Street / Les politiques corporelles du vêtement, du mur et la rue

Authors: ---
ISBN: 9780692700839 Year: Pages: 170 DOI: 10.21983/P3.0139.1.00 Language: French|English
Publisher: punctum books
Subject: Architecture
Added to DOAB on : 2019-06-12 09:24:36
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Qu’est-ce qu’un corps? Ce livre s’attache d’avantage à se poser cette question qu’à y répondre. L’ouvrage propose de complexifier quelques lieux communs à diverses échelles de proximité de cet assemblage matériel qu’est le corps. Ceci permet d’intégrer pleinement les objets, atmosphères et autres corps environnant celui-ci afin de proposer une lecture politique de leurs relations volontaires et fortuites. Du sweatshirt à capuche porté par Trayvon Martin lorsqu’il se fit tuer dans la banlieue de Miami Gardens, Florida, aux rues new-yorkaises durant Occupy Wall Street, en passant par le mur d’apartheid en Palestine, ce livre progresse par une succession d’exemples illustrant l’hypothèse selon laquelle les corps et les objets de toutes tailles entretiennent nécessairement des rapports politiques entre eux. What is a body? This book is more attached to raising the question than in offering a definitive answer. Instead, Lambert proposes to make more complex certain commonplaces located at various degrees of proximity to the body’s material assemblage, allowing a better integration of the surrounding objects, atmosphere and other bodies and proposing a political reading of their relationship to the body, whether deliberate or accidental. From the hoodie that Trayvon Martin wore when he was killed in the suburbs of Miami Gardens, Florida, to the streets of New York City during Occupy Wall Street and the apartheid wall in Palestine, this book moves through a series of episodes that illustrate how bodies and objects of all sizes are enmeshed in deeply entangled political relationships.

On Style: An Atelier

Authors: ---
ISBN: 9780615934020 Year: Pages: 154 DOI: 10.21983/P3.0055.0.00 Language: English
Publisher: punctum books
Subject: Languages and Literatures
Added to DOAB on : 2019-06-12 09:24:42
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Scholarship in medieval studies of the past 20 or so years has offered some provocative experiments in, and elegant exempla of, style. Scholars such as Anne Clark Bartlett, Kathleen Biddick, Catherine Brown, Brantley Bryant, Michael Camille, Jeffrey Jerome Cohen, Carolyn Dinshaw, James Earl, L.O. Aranye Fradenburg, Roberta Frank, Amy Hollywood, Cary Howie, C. Stephen Jaeger, Eileen Joy, Anna Klosowska, Nicola Masciandaro, Peggy McCracken, Paul Strohm, David Wallace, and Paul Zumthor, among others, have blended the conventions of academic writing with those of fiction, drama, memoir, comedy, polemic, and lyricism, and/or have developed what some would describe as elegant, and arresting (and in some cases, deliciously difficult) prose styles. As these registers merge, they can produce what has been called a queer historiographical encounter (or in queer theorist Elizabeth Freeman’s terms, “an erotohistoriography”), a “poetics of intensification,” and even a “new aestheticism.” The work of these scholars has also opened up debates (some rancorous) that often install what the editors of this volume feel are false binaries between form and content, feeling and thinking, affect and rigor, poetry and history, attachment and critical distance, enjoyment and discipline, style and substance. As Anna Klosowska writes in her contribution to this volume, The question of style, as it applies to medieval studies, is precisely the overcoming of that dichotomy between Nature and Man: a third element. And when the critique proceeds through the denunciation of the inimitability of someone’s style, as if it were the third sex, ungenerative, queer, sterile, sodomitic, lesbian, etc., the critic unconsciously puts his finger on exactly what style is; but that critic is mistaken about the style’s supposedly non-generative powers. In fact, style, neither fact nor theory but facilitating the transition between the two, is … the generative principle itself.

Fashion Myths

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Book Series: Kultur- und Medientheorie ISBN: 9783837624373 9783839424377 Year: DOI: 10.26530/OAPEN_627780 Language: English
Publisher: transcript Verlag Grant: Knowledge Unlatched - 100526
Subject: Social Sciences
Added to DOAB on : 2017-04-21 11:01:48
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Besides products and services multinational corporations also sell myths, values and immaterial goods. Such 'meta-goods' (e.g. prestige, beauty, strength) are major selling points in the context of successful marketing and advertising. Fashion adverts draw on deeply rooted human values, ideals and desires such as values and symbols of social recognition, beautification and rejuvenation. Although the reference to such meta-goods is obvious to some consumers, their rootedness in philosophical theories of human nature is less apparent, even for the marketers and advertisers themselves. This book is of special interest for researchers and students in the fields of Cultural Studies, Media Studies, Marketing, Advertising, Fashion, Cultural Critique, Philosophy, Sociology, Anthropology and Psychology, and for anyone interested in the ways in which fashion operates.

Las formas de la educación. Vínculos entre dimensión docente y dimensión arquitectónica en disciplinas creativas, como expresión de innovación universitaria

Authors: ---
Book Series: Historia de las Universidades ISSN: 1886-0710 ISBN: 9788491486282 Year: Volume: 42 Pages: 169 Language: Spanish
Publisher: Universidad Carlos III de Madrid. Figuerola Institute of Social Science History
Subject: Architecture --- Education
Added to DOAB on : 2018-04-18 17:32:46
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Education has shape. Such a quality, inherent to human formation processes, can be verified through centuries. The present text displays several sound theoretical arguments, oriented towards two basic goals: Investigate the historical connection between the architectural and educational dimensions, in terms of innovation. Propose a series of creative strategies that can be useful for universities when planning their urban&architectural implantations. Thus, one of the underlying intentions is to set up synergies between three aspects: the expressed theoretical arguments, the project references, and the one corresponding to pedagogical activities developed within disciplines narrowly associated to the remarked creativity. Such synergies converge in the present work, in order to compose a thematic body that, combining the cited conceptual base with the always exemplary praxis (both educational and architectural), serves as a valid tool to inspire processes of pedagogical and spatial requalification in Higher Education institutions. Under a global perspective, this text is the outcome of innovative actions carried out by the two authors in the last years, combining research and teaching initiatives in the areas of knowledge of Architecture and Fashion, which traditionally have shared a series of composition features in their designs. Following a global impulse addressed to foster creativity, they were developed in the Escuela Politécnica Superior (USPCEU), and in the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda de Madrid (UPM). In addition, it is analyzed the relation existing in those innovative activities between the educational and spatial aspects. Consequently, this work is characterized by its interdisciplinary profile, which can promote future creative teaching&learning projects in different areas of knowledge. The overall intention is to provide universities with innovative experiences that can help them all to foster sound optimizations of their mission, affecting both the educational dimension and its urban&architectural shape.---La Educación posee forma. Esta cualidad, inherente a los procesos formativos del ser humano, puede constatarse a lo largo de los siglos. El presente texto desarrolla un conjunto de argumentos teóricos sólidos, orientados a dos objetivos básicos: Investigar la conexión histórica entre las dimensiones arquitectónica y educativa, en clave de innovación y creatividad. Proponer un elenco de estrategias creativas que puedan ser útiles para que las universidades, cuando planifiquen sus implantaciones urbanístico-arquitectónicas. Así, una de las intenciones subyacentes es establecer sinergias entre tres aspectos: los expresados argumentos teóricos, las referencias proyectuales, y el correspondiente a las actividades pedagógicas desarrolladas dentro de disciplinas íntimamente relacionadas con la mencionada creatividad. Dichas sinergias convergen en el presente trabajo, con el fin de impulsar un corpus temático que, combinando la referida base conceptual con la siempre ilustrativa praxis (tanto educativa como arquitectónica), sirva como herramienta válida para inspirar procesos de recualificación pedagógica y espacial en instituciones de Educación Suprior. Bajo una perspectiva global, este texto es el resultado de acciones de innovación llevadas a cabo por sus dos autores en los últimos años, combinando iniciativas de investigación y enseñanza en las áreas de conocimiento de Arquitectura y Moda, que tradicionalmente han compartido un conjunto de rasgos compositivos en sus diseños. Siguiendo un impulso global dirigido a fomentar la creatividad, fueron realizadas en la Escuela Politécnica Superior (USPCEU), y en el Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda de Madrid (UPM). En añadidura, se analiza la relación existente en dichas actividades de innovación entre los aspectos educativos y los espaciales. En consecuencia, este trabajo se caracteriza por su perfil interdisciplinar, que puede promover futuros proyectos de Enseñanza/Aprendizaje creativos en diferentes áreas de conocimiento. La intención general es aportar a las universidades experiencias innovadoras que puedan ser de ayuda a todas ellas para promover optimizaciones consistentes de su misión, afectando tanto a la dimensión educativa como a su forma urbanístico-arquitectónica.

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